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Instead, richer countries have turned inward, slamming the doors to the displaced outside their borders. For much of its recent history, this region of Kenya was inhospitable to all but a local tribe of herders with their goats and camels. But since the refugees began streaming in, it strums with activity. It is essentially the largest imaginable company town, with its own school system, hospital, mosques and churches, a competitive soccer league, and a power grid. The camp’s roads can be bone-jarring even in a hulking SUV, and nearly impassable after a rainstorm, but they are still packed with merchants hawking just about everything in stalls painted upbeat turquoise and teal. You can sip a cup of cardamom-spiked espresso while watching men shoot pool in a semi-dark Ethiopian coffee shop as slices of light, from slats in the roof, spill in. You can get your bike fixed and your hair cut along the nameless main drag. You can order a tailor-made dress and buy a secondhand pair of shoes. But this is still a refugee camp, and daily transactions happen in small sums of cash — the equivalent of 50 cents for a ride on a motorcycle taxi called a boda-boda, $2 for lunch, $15 a month for electricity. Here in this remote place, women still gather just after dawn every day at communal water spouts to fill yellow water gallons for their families, a ritual as old as time. Then, at dusk, a handful of refugee entrepreneurs crank up their generators, bringing criss-crossed ropes of black wire crackling to life, and supplying neighborhoods with a few hours of electricity.
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